A DINNER TO REMEMBER OUR WEDDING

J Vineyards Pinot Noir. Giuseppe Quintarelli Secco. Lamb tenderloin with baked multi-colored carrots and blackberries. Marcona almonds. Three store-bought small treats for dessert.

Are there limits when planning an anniversary dinner? That depends. Life just got in the way of my wife, Sara, and I celebrating our 50th, 51st, and 52nd anniversaries. So, we decided to celebrate all of them last fall, fully two-and-a-half down to a half-a-year late, at a blow-out-all-the-stops dinner at Two Michelin Star Commis restaurant in Oakland, Calif. The proof that it was a celebration for the ages on a grand scale was the tip well-earned by the wait staff: A Three-Figure Tip, no less. {Do the math, if y’all care to.} The thought occurred to me to consider that night out not only catch up for past anniversaries but for this one—our 53rd. And maybe even throw in the next half dozen for good measure. My reasoning about the math could go like this. By dividing that three-figure tip by four, or even 10, has the effect of persuading both of us that Commis was a bargain after all!

Turns out life just got in the way of this anniversary, too. Nonetheless, having thus reasoned our way into a home-cooked meal, the wine was our first consideration. Sara loves J Vineyards Pinot noir. J bottles Pinot fifteen different ways, at eight different price points, about half under $50 and the other half up to $125. We’re opting for one under $50 because we don’t traffic in those higher priced wines. Once, however, during one episode of my salad days, I well remember when expensive First Growth futures were irresistible to me.

J Vineyards 2015 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

The Giuseppe Quintarelli Bianco Secco Ca’del Merlo is an all-time favorite of mine. I first tasted it at The Little Nell in Aspen. Quintarelli is highly regarded for its exceptional reds which are way out of our reach. But, this white blend was capable of turning that first taste into a transcendent experience. That wine was a 2004 Veneto Garganega blend. And what an experience! It shifted my tastes radically. I veered from domestic and foreign cabernets, plus chardonnay, to nothing but white blends for almost 10 years by now. I subsequently followed up that first Quintarelli with a 2008, 2018, and 2019, which was in my wine refrigerator yesterday morning awaiting last night’s feast . . . .

Giuseppe Quintarelli Bianco Secco Ca’del Merlo

When it comes to anniversary food at home, the sky—sans fresh truffles—seems to be the limit. We decided on sauteed lamb tenderloin accompanied by a side of multi-colored baked carrots and plump blackberries. Brandied fresh raisins and luscious Marcona almonds accented with balsamic vinegar were added when the dish was plated. Incidentally, the oval pan, pictured below, is from a magnificent shop that’s been in Paris since 1820 and is called E. DEHILLERIN. We have been there a few times. On each flight home, we filled the overhead luggage compartments with our treasures before trudging home with these heavy, heavy, heavy copper pots and pans.

Scrumptious lamb tenderloin, multi-colored carrots, blackberries, and rosemary

The E. DEHILLERIN in Paris has supplied kitchens around the world since 1820

Epoisses, that stinkiest-of-all-cheeses-French-or-otherwise, was my first choice for dessert. Well, that didn’t happen since Lunardi’s in Walnut Creek, Calif., our favorite neighborhood grocery store, was out when we shopped. Its inhouse bakery did come through nicely with these three sweets.

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